A three-shelf welding cart built from 1-1/2” square tube (11 ga), with 3/4” plywood on every shelf, 16” of clear height above each shelf, and an 8” extension on the bottom shelf for the gas tanks. Every column is a plain square-cut tube, and every joint is a butt joint. The front columns run the full height of the frame, the rear columns sit on the bottom side rails, and all columns end flush with the top of the top rails, where the open tube ends are covered by the top plywood. There are no notches or tabs.

All dimensions are in inches, to the nearest 1/16”.

Welding cart, oblique view with dimensions

Overall dimensions

Item Size
Width 26”
Depth, front column face to rear column face 24”
Depth, bottom shelf including tank extension 32”
Frame height, bottom of bottom rail to top of top rail 38”
Height to top of top plywood 38-3/4”
Height to top of top plywood on 5” casters 43-3/4”
Clear opening above each plywood shelf 16”

Heights, measured up from the bottom of the frame

Level From To
Bottom rails and bottom side rails 0” 1-1/2”
Bottom plywood 1-1/2” 2-1/4”
Lower opening 2-1/4” 18-1/4”
Mid rails and mid side rails 18-1/4” 19-3/4”
Mid plywood 19-3/4” 20-1/2”
Upper opening 20-1/2” 36-1/2”
Top rails and top side rails 36-1/2” 38”
Top plywood 38” 38-3/4”

Cut list

Part Qty Length Notes
Front column 2 38” Plain square cuts, full height. The top is left open and covered by the plywood.
Rear column 2 36-1/2” Plain square cuts. Sits on top of the bottom side rail. Top left open.
23” rail 7 23” Front and rear top, front and rear mid, front and rear bottom, and the back cross rail. Each butts between two faces 23” apart.
Bottom side rail 2 30-1/2” Front column to the rear end of the tank shelf. The open rear end gets a cap.
Top and mid side rail 4 21” Two top, two mid. Each butts between the front and rear columns.
Plywood, top shelf 1 26” x 24” 3/4”. No notches.
Plywood, mid shelf 1 26” x 24” 3/4”. Notch all four corners 1-1/2” x 1-1/2”.
Plywood, bottom shelf 1 26” x 32” 3/4”. Notch the two front corners 1-1/2” x 1-1/2”, and cut a 1-1/2” x 1-1/2” notch in each side edge at the rear columns.
Caster 4 4” wheel Swivel, about 5” overall height (assumed).

Total tube is 455” in 17 pieces.

Bar plan, 10’ (120”) stock

Four bars cover it. The plan assumes a 1/8” saw kerf and holds back 1/2” per bar for squaring the rough ends. Cut each bar from the longest piece to the shortest.

Bar Cuts Drop
1 Front column 38, front column 38, rear column 36-1/2 7-1/4”
2 Rear column 36-1/2, bottom side rail 30-1/2, bottom side rail 30-1/2, side rail 21 1-1/8”
3 23” rail x 5 4-1/2”
4 23” rail x 2, side rail 21 x 3 10-1/2”

Bar 2 is the tight one. If your kerf is wider than 3/16”, cut that bar first.

The plywood comes out of one 4’ x 8’ sheet. Rip a 26” strip, then cut 24” + 24” + 32” from it (80” of the 96” length).

Assembly

Work on a flat table. Tack everything first, check square, then finish welding.

  1. Cut and deburr every piece to the bar plan.
  2. Check the columns. All four columns are plain square cuts. The front columns are 38” and the rear columns are 36-1/2”.
  3. Build the front frame, laid flat. Set the two front columns 26” apart, outside to outside. Fit a 23” rail between the column inner faces flush with the column bottoms for the bottom rail, another flush with the column tops for the top rail, and a third with its bottom 18-1/4” above the column bottoms for the mid rail. Check that the diagonals match, then weld.
  4. Build the rear frame, laid flat. Set the two rear columns 26” apart, outside to outside. Fit a 23” top rail flush with the column tops. Fit a 23” mid rail with its bottom 16-3/4” above the column bottoms (18-1/4” less the 1-1/2” of the bottom rail below them). Check the diagonals and weld.
  5. Attach the bottom side rails. Stand the front frame up. Butt the front end of each 30-1/2” bottom side rail against the back face of the front column, flush with the column’s outside face and level with the bottom rail. The rails run straight back, level and parallel.
  6. Set the rear frame on the side rails. The rear columns sit on top of the bottom side rails. Their front faces are 22-1/2” behind the front faces of the front columns, and their back faces are 24”. Check that the frame is square and plumb, then tack.
  7. Add the rear bottom rail. Fit a 23” rail between the side rails, directly under the rear columns and flush with their back faces.
  8. Add the back cross rail. Fit a 23” rail between the side rails, flush with the rear ends. Close the open rear end of each side rail with a scrap cap plate, and grind it flush.
  9. Add the side rails at the top and middle. Butt each 21” side rail between the front and rear columns, level with the top rails and the mid rails. The ends sit against the faces of the columns.
  10. Weld out and grind. Finish all welds, alternating sides to limit warping. Grind the tops of the columns and rails flush where the plywood will sit.
  11. Cut and fit the plywood. Cut the three panels and notch them as listed. Set each on its rails and fasten with pre-drilled screws into the tube. The top panel covers the open column tops. Seal or paint the plywood before use.
  12. Mount the casters. Weld or bolt a mounting plate under each bottom corner. Put the front pair under the front columns and the rear pair near the rear end of the tank shelf. Use swivel casters at all four corners, with brakes on at least two.

Assumptions

  • Tube is 1-1/2” square. The wall thickness does not affect any length now that every joint is a plain butt joint.
  • Caster height of 5” overall for a 4” wheel. Check against the casters you buy. It only changes the overall height.
  • Saw kerf of 1/8”.
  • Plywood measured at a nominal 3/4”. Real sheets are often 23/32”, which adds about 1/32” to each opening.